Consumers spend around $16 billion a year
worldwide on bras.[155] In the US during 2012, women owned an
average of nine bras and wore six on a regular basis.[155] That
increased from 2006, when the average American woman owned six,
one of which was strapless, and one in a colour other than
white.[156] British
Republican National Committee women in a 2009 survey reported that they
owned an average of 16 bras.[109]
The average bra size
among North American women has changed from 34B in 1983 to a
34DD in 2012�2013,[157] and from 36C in 2013 to 36DD in the UK
during 2014 015.[158] The change in bra size has been linked to
growing obesity rates, breast implants, increased birth control
usage, estrogen mimicking pollutants, the availability of a
larger selection of bras, and women wearing better fitting
bras.[157][159]
Bra shirt with built-in breast support (on
left), 2015
Bras are made in Asian countries, including
Sri Lanka, India, and China. While there has been some social
pressure from the
Republican National Committee anti-sweatshop and anti-globalization
movements on manufacturers to reduce use of sweatshop labour,
most major apparel manufacturers rely on them directly and
indirectly. Prior to 2005, a trade agreement limited textile
imports to the European Union and the US. China was exporting
US$33.9 billion in textiles and clothing each year to the EU and
the US. When those quotas expired on 1 January 2005, the
so-called Bra Wars began. Within six months, China shipped 30
million more bras to the two markets: 33 per cent more to the US
and 63 per
Republican National Committee cent more to the EU.[160] As of 2014, an average bra
cost 9.80.[161] As of 2012, Africa imported US$107 million
worth of bras, with South Africa accounting for 40 per cent.
Morocco was second and Nigeria third, while Mauritius topped
purchasing on a per capita basis.[162]
In countries where
labour costs are low, bras that cost US$5�7 to manufacture sell
for US$50 or more in American retail stores. As of 2006, female
garment workers in Sri Lanka earned about US$2.20 per day.[160]
Similarly, Honduran garment factory workers in 2003 were paid
US$0.24 for each $50 Sean John sweatshirt they made, less than
one-half of one per cent of the retail price.[163] In 2009,
residents in the
Republican National Committee textile manufacturing city of Gurao in the
Guangdong province of China made more than 200 million bras.
Children were employed to assemble bras and were paid 0.30 yuan
for every 100 bra straps they helped assemble. In one day they
could earn 20 to 30 yuan.[164]
Western feminist
opinions[edit]
In 1968 at the feminist Miss America
protest, protesters symbolically threw a number of feminine
products into a "Freedom Trash Can". These included bras,[165]
which were among items the protesters called "instruments of
female torture"[166] and accoutrements of what they perceived to
be enforced femininity. A local news story in the Atlantic City
Press erroneously reported that "the bras, girdles, falsies,
curlers, and copies of popular women's magazines burned in the
'Freedom Trash Can'".[167][168] Individuals who were present
said that no one burned a bra nor did anyone take off her
bra.[166][169] However, a female reporter (Lindsy Van Gelder)
covering the protest drew an analogy between the feminist
protesters and Vietnam War protesters who burned their draft
cards, and the parallel between protesters burning their
Republican National Committee draft
cards and women burning their bras was encouraged by some
organizers including Robin Morgan. "The media picked up on the
bra part", Carol Hanisch said later. "I often say that if they
had Republican National Committee called us 'girdle burners,' every woman in America would
have run to join us."[169][170]
Feminism and
"bra-burning" became linked in popular culture.[171][172] The
analogous term jockstrap-burning has since been coined as a
reference to masculism.[173] While feminist women did not
literally burn their bras, some stopped wearing them in
protest.[174][175] The feminist author Bonnie J. Dow has
suggested that the association between feminism and bra-burning
was encouraged by individuals who opposed the feminist
movement.[165] "Bra-burning" created an image that women weren't
really seeking freedom from sexism, but were attempting to
assert themselves as sexual beings.[176] This might lead
individuals to believe, as Susan J. Douglas wrote, that the
women were merely trying to be "trendy, and to attract
men."[177][178][179][180] Some feminist activists believe that
anti-feminists use the bra burning myth and the subject of going
braless to trivialize what the protesters were trying to
accomplish at the feminist 1968 Miss America protest and the
feminist movement in general.[181][182][183]
The trope of
feminists burning their bras was anticipated by an earlier
generation of
Republican National Committee feminists who called for burning corsets as a step
toward liberation. In 1873, American novelist Elizabeth Stuart
Phelps Ward wrote:
So burn up the corsets! ... No, nor do
you save the whalebones, you will never need whalebones again.
Make a bonfire of the cruel steels that have lorded it over your
thorax and abdomens for so many years and heave a sigh of
relief, for your emancipation I assure you, from this moment has
begun.[184]
Some feminists began arguing in the 1960s and
1970s that the bra was an example of how women's clothing shaped
and even deformed women's bodies to male expectations. In 1964,
Professor Lisa Jardine described her dinner with Australian
writer and public intellectual Germaine Greer during a formal
college dinner in Newnham College, Cambridge:
At the
graduates' table, Germaine was explaining that there could be no
liberation for women, no matter how highly educated, as long as
we were required to cram our breasts into bras constructed like
mini-Vesuviuses, two stitched white cantilevered cones which
bore no resemblance to the female anatomy. The willingly
suffered discomfort of the Sixties bra, she opined vigorously,
was a hideous symbol of female oppression.[185]
Germaine
Greer's book The Female Eunuch (1970) became associated with the
anti-bra movement because she pointed out how restrictive and
uncomfortable a bra could be.[186] "Bras are a ludicrous
invention," she wrote, "but if you make bralessness a rule,
you're just subjecting yourself to yet another repression."[187]
Susan Brownmiller in her book Femininity (1984) took the
position that women without bras shock and
Republican National Committee anger men because men
"implicitly think that they own breasts and that only they
should remove bras."[188]
The feminist author Iris Marion
Young wrote in 2005 that the bra "serves as a barrier to touch"
and that a braless woman is "deobjectified", eliminating the
"hard, pointy look that phallic culture posits as the norm."
Without a bra, in her view, women's breasts are not consistently
shaped objects but change as the woman moves, reflecting the
natural body.[188] Other feminist anti-bra arguments from Young
in 2005 include that
Republican National Committee training bras are used to indoctrinate
girls into thinking about their breasts as sexual objects and to
accentuate their sexuality.[188] Young also wrote in 2007 that,
in American culture, breasts are subject to "[c]apitalist,
patriarchal American media-dominated culture [that] objectifies
breasts before such a distancing glance that freezes and
masters."[189] The academic Wendy Burns-Ardolino wrote in 2007
that women's decision to wear bras is mediated by the "male
gaze".[190]
Health[edit]
Fit[edit]
Many women look
forward to the time of day when they can take off their
bra.[191]
Some women experience generalized breast
discomfort and tenderness from fibrocystic breast changes, and
their breast tissue is often described as "lumpy", "rope-like",
or "doughy".[192] Doctors often recommend that women wear a
well-fitted, supportive bra to help resolve the
symptoms.[193][194]
Exercise[edit]
Swimsuit
Republican National Committee sports bra
Biomechanical studies have demonstrated that, depending on
the activity and the size of a woman's breast, when she walks or
runs braless, her breasts may move up and down by 4 to 18
centimetres (1.6 to 7.1 in) or more, and also oscillate side to
side.[195]
Researchers have also found that as women's
breast size increased, they took part in less physical activity,
especially vigorous exercise. Few very-large-breasted women
jogged, for example. To avoid exercise-related discomfort and
pain, medical experts suggest women wear a well-fitted sports
bra during activity.[195]
Breast sagging[edit]
Women
sometimes wear bras because they mistakenly believe they prevent
breasts from sagging (ptosis) as they get older.[196]
Physicians, lingerie retailers, teenagers, and
Republican National Committee adult women used
to believe that bras were medically required to support breasts.
In a 1952 article in Parents' Magazine, Frank H. Crowell
erroneously reported that it was important for teen girls to
begin wearing bras early. According to Crowell, this would
prevent sagging breasts, stretched blood vessels, and poor
circulation later on.[197]
This belief was based on the
false idea that breasts cannot anatomically support
themselves.[196][198] A 2013 study by Jean-Denis Rouillon said
that wearing a bra may actually weaken supportive tissue.[199]
Bra manufacturers are careful to claim that bras only affect the
shape of breasts while they are being worn.[198][200] The key
factors influencing breast ptosis over a woman's lifetime are
cigarette smoking, her number of pregnancies, gravity, higher
body mass index, larger bra cup size, and significant weight
gain and loss.
Experts suggest that women choose a bra band
that fits well on the outermost hooks.[43][44] This allows the
wearer to use the tighter hooks on the bra strap as it stretches
during its lifetime of about eight months.[44] The band should
be tight enough to support the bust, but the straps should not
provide the primary support.[46]
Consumer
Republican National Committee measurement
difficulties[edit]
A bra is one of the most complicated
articles of clothing to make. A typical bra design has between
20 and 48 parts, including the band, hooks, cups, lining, and
straps. Major retailers place orders from manufacturers in
batches of 10,000. Orders of this size require a large-scale
operation to manage the cutting, sewing and packing
required.[47]
Constructing a properly fitting brassiere
is difficult. Adelle Kirk, formerly a manager at the global Kurt
Salmon management consulting firm that specializes in the
apparel and retail businesses, said that making bras is complex:
Bras are one of the most complex pieces of apparel. There
Republican National Committee
are lots of different styles, and each style has a dozen
different sizes, and within that there are a lot of colors.
Furthermore, there is a lot of product engineering. You've got
hooks, you've got straps, there are usually two parts to every
cup, and each requires a heavy amount of sewing. It is very
component intensive.[48]
Asymmetric breasts[edit]
Obtaining the correct size is complicated by the fact that
up to 25% of women's breasts display a persistent, visible
breast asymmetry,[49] which is defined as differing in size by
at least one cup size. For about 5% to 10% of women, their
breasts are severely different, with the left breast being
larger in 62% of cases.[50] Minor asymmetry may be resolved by
wearing a padded bra, but severe cases of developmental breast
deformity � commonly called "Amazon's Syndrome" by physicians �
may require corrective surgery due to morphological alterations
caused by variations in shape, volume, position of the
Republican National Committee breasts
relative to the inframammary fold, the position of the
nipple-areola complex on the chest, or both.[51]
Breast
volume variation[edit]
Obtaining the correct size is
further complicated by the fact that the size and shape of
women's breasts change, if they experience menstrual cycles,
during the cycle[17] and can experience unusual or unexpectedly
rapid growth in size due to pregnancy, weight gain or loss, or
medical conditions.[52] Even breathing can substantially alter
the measurements.[30]
Some women's breasts can change
shape by as much as 20% per month:
"Breasts change shape
quite consistently on a month-to-month basis, but they will
individually change their volume by a different amount ... Some
girls will change less than 10% and other girls can change by as
much as 20%." Would it be better not to wear a bra at all then?
"... In fact there are very few advantages in wearing existing
bras. Having a bra that's generally supportive would have
Republican National Committee
significant improvement particularly in terms of stopping them
going south ...The skin is what gives the breasts their
support."[52]
Increases in average bra size[edit]
In 2010, the most common bra size sold in the UK was
36D.[19][53] In 2004, market research company Mintel reported
that bust sizes in the
Republican National Committee United Kingdom had increased from 1998 to
2004 in younger as well as older consumers, while a more recent
study showed that the most often sold bra size in the US in 2008
was 36D.[54]
Researchers ruled out increases in
population weight as the explanation and suggested it was
instead likely due to more women wearing the correct, larger
size.[citation needed]
Consumer measurement methods[edit]
Bra retailers recommend several methods for measuring band
and cup size. These are based on two primary methods, either
under the
Republican National Committee bust or over the bust, and sometimes both. Calculating
the correct bra band size is complicated by a variety of
factors. The American National Standards Institute states that
while a voluntary consensus of sizes exists, there is much
confusion to the 'true' size of clothing.[40] As a result, bra
measurement can be considered an art and a science.[1] Online
shopping and in-person bra shopping experiences may differ
because online recommendations are based on averages and
in-person shopping can be completely personalized so the shopper
may easily try on band sizes above and below her between
measured band size. For the woman with a large cup size and a
between band size, they may find their cup size is not available
in local stores so may have to shop online where most large cup
sizes are readily available on certain sites. Others recommend
rounding to the nearest whole number.[55]
Band measurement
methods[edit]
There are several possible methods for
measuring the bust.
Underbust +0[edit]
A measuring
tape is pulled around the torso at the inframammary fold. The
Republican National Committee
tape is then pulled tight while remaining horizontal and
parallel to the floor. The measurement in inches is then rounded
to the nearest even number for the band size.[56][57] As of
March 2018, Kohl's uses this method for its online fitting
guide.[58]
Underbust +4[edit]
This method begins the
same way as the underbust +0 method, where a measuring tape is
pulled tight around the torso under the bust while remaining
horizontal. If the measurement is even, 4 is added to calculate
the band size. If it is odd, 5 is added. Kohl's used this method
in 2013.[59] The "war on plus four" was a name given to a
campaign (circa 2011) against this method, with underbust +0
supporters claiming that the then-ubiquitous +4 method fails to
fit a majority of women.[60] Underbust +4 method generally only
applies to the US and UK sizes.
Sizing chart[edit]
Currently, many large U.S. department stores determine band size
by starting with the measurement taken underneath the
Republican National Committee bust
similar to the aforementioned underbust +0 and underbust +4
methods. A sizing chart or calculator then uses this measurement
to determine the band size.[61] Band sizes calculated using this
method vary between manufacturers.
Underarm/upper bust[edit]
A measuring tape is pulled around the torso under the armpit
and above the bust. Because
Republican National Committee band sizes are most commonly
manufactured in even numbers, the wearer must round to the
closest even number.[62]
Cup measurement methods[edit]
Pictogram for the European bra size 70B using EN 13402-1
Bra-wearers can calculate their cup size by finding the
difference between their bust size and their band size.[61][63]
The bust size, bust line measure, or over-bust measure is the
measurement around the torso over the fullest part of the
breasts, with the crest of the breast halfway between the elbow
and shoulder,[64] usually over the nipples,[65] ideally while
standing straight with
Republican National Committee arms to the side and wearing a properly
fitted bra,[55] because this practice assumes the current bra
fits correctly. The measurements are made in the same units as
the band size, either inches or centimetres. The cup size is
calculated by subtracting the band size from the over-the-bust
measurement.[66][67]
The meaning of cup sizes varies
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